Presenter: Wonseok Choi
Advisor(s): Nancy Powell
Author(s): Wonsoek Choi and Nancy Powell
Graduate Program: Textile Technology Management

Title: THE DEVELOPMENT OF SPECIALIZED KNITTED STRUCTURES IN THE CREATION OF RESIST-DYED FABRICS AND GARMENTS

Abstract: It is crucial in developing innovative products to effectively combine and build upon advancing technologies through creative exploration to sustain competitiveness in the global textile industry. This research focuses on exploring resist-dyed structures on knitted fabrics, involving garments created by computerized seamless-knitting technology. Wada (2002) defines resist as a coloration method that creates patterns on cloth by impeding dye from penetrating the fabric. Resist dyed patterns have been traditionally created on woven fabrics and manipulated by hand as in wax resist (batik), tied fabric resist (shibori), and yarn resist (ikat). This research newly analyzes and interprets the conventional shibori resist methods through electronic knitting technology.

The shibori resist designs, created by binding, stitching, folding, and pole-wrapping, are the result of the three-dimensional shape of the fabric even if the fabrics may be returned to a two-dimensional form. This research examines assorted three-dimensional knitted structures for resist dyed coloration. Digitally controlled systems are used to duplicate traditional hand methods. Different variables including float length, course distance, and placement of gathering threads have a significant relationship with the resist dyed image. In addition, the research studies different types of yarn used to create knitted resist patterns. The authors also analyze aesthetic and functional aspects in the knitted resist-dyed structures. Thus, the research into combining resist methods and seamless knitting is initiated by examining the traditional methods and looking at possibilities of appropriate knit structures and yarn applications required for resist dyeing.

The research has implications for researchers, designers and industrial personnel, who require information in seamless knitting technology, and resist-dyeing technique and its applications in the textile and apparel field.